Wisconsin Hybrid Grapes

My recent wine trail led me back to my roots—Wisconsin, where I explored a lineup of cold-hardy hybrid grapes including Marquette, Petite Pearl, Frontenac, Edelweiss, and Foch. These resilient varietals, bred to withstand the region’s harsh winters, offered a fascinating glimpse into the ingenuity of northern winemaking. Each glass held not just flavor but also a sense of place, shaped by generations of perseverance and experimentation in the vineyard. It felt fitting that I sipped these wines not far from where my story began.

Step back in time at the historic square of Monroe, Wisconsin, where the iconic courthouse stands proudly alongside the beloved Baumgartner's, a local landmark known for its rich heritage and legendary cheese. A perfect blend of history, tradition, and cheese.

I was born in Monroe, Wisconsin—a town I return to often, especially during Cheese Days when the historic square comes alive with music, Alpine horns, and fondue fountains. As a kid, I spent hours chasing frogs and fireflies in the humid twilight, my transistor radio always nearby. Casey Kasem’s countdown was the soundtrack of my summers, crackling through the speaker as I memorized Top 40 hits like scripture. On this trip, my aunt and uncle gave me Chasing the Top 40, a nostalgic tribute to those formative years and the music that shaped them—just as these Wisconsin wines are shaping my palate today.

Anna Marie, ever the curious connoisseur, noses a Swiss-inspired wine glass brimming with deep, inky Foch -- its intense color hinting at the boldness from within. Developed in the early 20th-century France and embraced in cool-climate regions like the Midwest and Canada, Marechal Foch is a hybrid grape known for its rich concentration, vibrant acidity, and flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, and earthy undertones. A nod to heritage and stubbornness, much like Anna Marie herself.

Hybrid grapes have become the heart of Wisconsin’s burgeoning wine industry, thriving where traditional Vitis vinifera would struggle to survive. These cold-hardy cultivars, specifically bred to endure the state’s frigid winters and short growing season, are making it possible for winemakers to produce distinctive, site-expressive wines in the Upper Midwest. More than just a workaround, hybrids represent a frontier of innovation—blending heritage, science, and regional identity in every bottle.

On this trip, I focused my tasting on Marquette, Petite Pearl, and Foch—three standout red hybrids that are gaining traction across the state. At wineries like Bailey’s Run in New Glarus, Hawk’s Mill near Browntown, Rock and Wool just outside of Poynette, and the scenic Botham Vineyards in Barneveld, I encountered bold, structured wines full of character and regional pride. These producers are putting Wisconsin wine on the map, one vintage at a time, proving that the Midwest has a voice worth listening to—and sipping.

Wisconsin’s viticultural journey began in the 19th century, when early grape growers faced harsh winters, fungal diseases, and short growing seasons that made cultivating traditional European varieties nearly impossible. Over time, these challenges spurred innovation, leading to the development and adoption of cold-hardy hybrid grapes that could thrive in the region’s unique continental climate. As viticulturists experimented and adapted, the focus shifted from struggling vinifera to resilient hybrids like Foch and Marquette. This evolution attracted increasing interest from local farmers and winemakers, who saw the potential for a sustainable, regionally expressive wine industry rooted in adaptability and perseverance.

Marquette has quickly emerged as a standout among cold-hardy hybrids, celebrated for its ability to withstand harsh winters and resist common vine diseases, making it ideal for regions like Wisconsin. This grape produces deeply colored red wines with a vibrant flavor profile marked by notes of black cherry, ripe plum, subtle pepper, and hints of toasted oak from barrel aging. Winemakers craft both varietal wines and blends using Marquette, often showcasing its medium body, smooth tannins, and balanced acidity. Its quality and consistency have earned it recognition beyond the Midwest, helping to legitimize hybrid wines in broader markets and placing Wisconsin viticulture firmly on the national wine map.

As I examine the deep ruby hue of a dry red Wisconsin hybrid in my glass, Anna Marie lies patiently at my side—a comforting companion on the road. Traveling is always more joyful when there’s a dog to connect with, especially in the quiet moments when I’m missing Annie and Lucy.

Foch, officially known as Marechal Foch, is a French-American hybrid with deep roots in cold-climate viticulture, prized for its early ripening and remarkable adaptability. Developed in France but widely embraced in North America, Foch thrives in Wisconsin’s challenging conditions, producing wines that range from dry and structured to lusciously sweet. Its flavor profile often leans into dark cherry, blackberry, and plum, layered with earthy, smoky undertones that lend depth and character. In southern Wisconsin, wineries such as Botham and Hawk’s Mill have made Foch a cornerstone of their red wine programs, showcasing its versatility and honoring a grape that has quietly helped define the region’s vinous identity.

Our first wine stop in Wisconsin brought us to the charming and welcoming Botham Winery, where we were hosted by the delightful duo Mills Botham and Renata. Their warmth and knowledge set the perfect tone for the journey ahead. My favorite pour of the day was Field 3, crafted from the Leon Millot grape—a dark-skinned hybrid developed in France in the early 20th century by viticulturist Eugène Kuhlmann. Known for its deep color, early ripening, and ability to thrive in cooler climates, Leon Millot produces bold, earthy reds with rich notes of dark cherry, plum, and often a touch of spice or cocoa. Sipping it in the Wisconsin sun while reconnecting with my uncle made for a joyful and memorable beginning to our wine trail adventure.

Appreciating the exquisite color and intensity of Hawks Mill Marquette. This wine exemplifies the artistry of winemaking, showcasing its rich character and depth. A true delight for any dry, red wine connoisseur.

While visiting Hawks Mill, I found myself enchanted by its rustic charm and delightful offerings. The winery is quickly becoming one of my favorites when I'm in Monroe. I savored the Marquette and Petite Pearl, both of which showcased the rich flavors of the region. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the dry, crisp Edelweiss, which was incredibly refreshing, and the sweet Rhubarb wine, boasting over 50 grams of residual sugar yet beautifully balanced with acidity. The atmosphere was just as enjoyable with live music enhancing the Sunday vibes. It truly felt like the perfect day to indulge in good wine and great company.

Exploring the elegant profile of Bailey's Run Petite Pearl grape. This unique varietal captivates with its vibrant color and nuanced flavors, making it a Southern Wisconsin remarkable expression of terroir. A true testament to the craft of winemaking.

Bailey’s Run Winery, nestled in the rolling hills of New Glarus, blends scenic charm with a thoughtful approach to winemaking that emphasizes sustainability and local sourcing. Among its standout offerings is Petite Pearl, a relatively new cold-hardy hybrid known for its impressive resilience to Wisconsin’s bitter winters and its complex yet approachable flavor profile. Petite Pearl typically yields wines with soft tannins and layered notes of blackberry, black currant, spice, and a touch of cocoa, making it both crowd-pleasing and cellar-worthy. At Bailey’s Run, it’s often crafted into smooth, fruit-forward reds that are easy to enjoy on their own or paired with Wisconsin’s famous cheeses—further proof that Midwest wines can offer both innovation and broad appeal.

Curiosity piqued: Anna Marie examines Rock and Wool Frontenac. This wine showcases the genetic achievement of the University of Minnesota's grape breeding program. Frontenac, a prominent interspecific hybrid grape cultivar (Vitis vinifera x Vitis reparia et al.) developed for cold hardiness and disease resistance. This hybrid grape is a cornerstone of modern northern viticulture, and presents complex aromas even to the curious canine observer.

Rock and Wool Winery, located on a working sheep farm near Poynette, is deeply committed to showcasing Wisconsin’s local grapes while fostering a sense of community through wine. Their mission goes beyond the bottle, blending agriculture, hospitality, and creativity into an experience that feels uniquely Midwestern. One of their most expressive grapes is Frontenac, a cold-hardy hybrid known for its deep color, vibrant acidity, and high natural sugar content. This grape produces bold, fruit-driven wines with flavors of cherry, blackberry, and subtle hints of chocolate or spice. At Rock and Wool, Frontenac is used to craft a wide range of wines—from structured dry reds to rich port-style dessert wines—demonstrating its incredible versatility and value in Wisconsin’s evolving wine scene.

Inside the historic Baumgartner’s in Monroe, Wisconsin—where the scent of aged Swiss cheese mingles with laughter and clinking glasses—this iconic tavern reflects generations of Swiss-German heritage. Nestled on the town square, its cozy interior and communal vibe echo the spirit of old-world beer gardens, where cheese isn’t just food—it’s a cultural celebration.

No visit to Monroe, Wisconsin feels complete without a stop at Baumgartner’s Cheese Store & Tavern, my go-to spot on the historic square and a place steeped in local flavor—both literal and cultural. As the oldest cheese store in Wisconsin, Baumgartner’s is more than a pub; it’s a living tribute to the Swiss and German immigrants who shaped the town’s identity and made Monroe the cheese capital of the world. I have vivid memories from the 1960s and ’70s of visiting my grandma and grandpa, chasing frogs by day and walking hand-in-hand across the square in the evening, drawn in by the smell of Limburger and the hum of conversation spilling out onto the sidewalk. Today, I still make my way back for Cheese Days, when the square bursts to life with music, wine, bratwurst, and yodeling—sharing it all with my aunt and uncle and savoring the deep connection to a place that has always felt like home.

My traditional last morning breakfast at Baumgartner’s—a hearty bratwurst sandwich with red onion and spicy German mustard on rye, washed down with a crisp German wheat beer and two cups of the soup of the day. The ultimate travel pregame meal, steeped in rich Swiss-German flavors and wrapped in the comforting nostalgia of childhood visits to Monroe’s town square.

The future of Wisconsin viticulture looks promising as hybrid grape cultivation continues to gain momentum among both established and emerging wineries. With more farmers recognizing the viability of cold-hardy varieties like Marquette, Foch, and Petite Pearl, the state is seeing a surge of interest in local wine production. Wisconsin wines are beginning to garner attention beyond regional borders, appealing to consumers seeking authentic, climate-adapted expressions of place. As environmental pressures mount, many vineyards are adopting sustainable practices—from reduced pesticide use to regenerative farming techniques—to ensure long-term viability. This commitment to adaptation not only strengthens the industry’s resilience but also opens the door to experimental hybrids and new grape crossings specifically tailored for shifting climate conditions. For me, visiting my aunt and uncle in Wisconsin is always a highlight—sharing wine flights on a patio overlooking the vineyard, paired with world-class local cheeses, makes every visit feel like a celebration of both family and place.

As I wrapped up this visit to Wisconsin, glass in hand and Casey Kasem’s voice playing softly in the background, I was struck by how seamlessly memories and moments can blend—much like a good wine. Tasting Marquette, Foch, Petite Pearl, and Frontenac reminded me that these hybrid grapes are not just survivors of a cold climate, but storytellers of a region coming into its own. Each sip carried echoes of resilience, innovation, and local pride, much like the countdowns I grew up listening to on my transistor radio, now replayed on vinyl or streaming while I sit with my uncle tasting new vintages and savoring my aunt’s incredible homemade meals. The songs take me back to summer nights catching fireflies, just as the wines connect me to the landscape I still love. Wisconsin is no longer just a hidden gem—it’s carving out a space on the national wine map. If you haven’t yet, I encourage you to visit its vineyards, meet the passionate winemakers, and experience how hybrid grapes—and a little nostalgia—can create something truly unforgettable.