Italian Wine Regions: Mount Etna

Annie bounds through the vineyard as Lucy watches calmly—Mount Etna smoldering in the distance—both pups poised in the golden glow of anticipation for the first pour of a great Etna Bianco.

High above the Sicilian countryside, Mount Etna looms as both creator and destroyer—Europe’s most active volcano and a symbol of resilience. Its dramatic eruptions have shaped the island’s soil, history, and mythology for millennia. From the buried ruins of Pompeii, where ancient Romans once enjoyed wines from volcanic terroir, to Etna’s most recent eruption in 2025 that once again reminded the world of its raw power, the volcano remains a central force in the Mediterranean imagination. But in its quiet moments, Etna gives something back: mineral-rich soils, high-altitude breezes, and a microclimate that produces some of Italy’s most compelling wines.

A bottle of Sicilian Nero d’Avola stands proudly in the foreground, its deep ruby hues catching the golden light—while Annie lounges contentedly in the background, her calm gaze echoing the enduring spirit of the island. Sicily’s winemaking roots stretch back over 3,000 years, shaped by Greek settlers and later refined by Roman, Arab, and Norman influences. Nero d’Avola, once used primarily for blending, now shines on its own as the island’s flagship varietal. WSET Level III Tasting Note (Typical Nero d’Avola): Appearance: Deep ruby. Nose: Medium to pronounced intensity, with aromas of black cherry, plum, dried herbs, and hints of licorice and sweet spice. Palate: Dry, full-bodied, medium to medium+ acidity, high tannins, and medium+ alcohol; flavors mirror the nose with additional notes of dark chocolate and earthinessConclusion: A robust, characterful wine with good balance and aging potential—capturing the bold heart of Sicily in every glass.

In this post, I’m diving into the volcanic soul of Etna Bianco by tasting and comparing two exceptional expressions: Etenide from the small, family-owned Pennisi estate and Alta Mora from the acclaimed Cusumano winery. Both wines showcase the unique tension and elegance that define Mount Etna’s white wines—wines that not only survive in this unpredictable landscape but thrive because of it. This exploration of includes how centuries of geology, history, and human craftsmanship come together in a glass from the slopes of a living volcano.

The vineyards of Mount Etna are among the oldest in the world, clinging to steep terraces carved into volcanic rock centuries ago. These ancient vines—many of them ungrafted and pre-phylloxera—are a living testament to the region’s deep-rooted viticultural history. Generations of Sicilian farmers have tended these slopes, often by hand, preserving native grape varieties like Carricante, Catarratto, and Nerello Mascalese. The volcano itself is not just a backdrop but an essential player, infusing the soil with minerals that lend Etna wines their signature vibrancy and structure.

Opened, breathing, and sitting on the table, two treasures await—Etneide and Alta Mora—each bottle a tribute to Sicily’s volcanic soul, ready to unveil the crisp elegance and minerality of Etna Bianco.

Wine has always held a place of honor in Sicilian culture, woven into everything from religious festivals to family meals. In the villages around Mount Etna, wine isn’t just a product—it’s a reflection of identity and heritage. Archaeological discoveries, including amphorae and ancient wine presses found near the volcano’s base, point to a winemaking tradition that stretches back to Greek and Roman times. These findings reinforce what locals have always known: Etna is not just a wine region—it’s a cradle of history, where each bottle connects the past to the present in every sip.

What truly sets Etna wines apart is the dramatic interplay of soil, elevation, and microclimate. Vines grow at elevations ranging from 400 to over 1,000 meters above sea level, with cooler temperatures and wide diurnal shifts that preserve acidity and build complexity. The high-altitude conditions delay ripening, allowing grapes like Carricante to develop vibrant citrus and herbal notes while maintaining a refreshing backbone of acidity. These factors, combined with centuries-old viticultural practices, result in wines that are not only site-specific but also elegantly age-worthy—offering a distinct sense of place that few regions can replicate.

As Lucy paddles joyfully after her football in the shimmering pool on a scorching 105-degree day, I raise a sunlit glass of Mount Etna Carricante—its golden hues sparkling like lava-kissed jewels, crisp and cool against the summer heat.

The wines of Mount Etna don’t just connect us to the land—they link us to the myth and literature that have shaped Mediterranean identity for millennia. In Homer’s Odyssey, the tale of Odysseus and the Cyclops unfolds in a cave many believe to be set along the rugged coast of Sicily, near the very slopes where Etna’s vineyards thrive today. Odysseus, calling himself “Nobody,” uses cleverness—and a potent wine—to outwit the monstrous Polyphemus, linking wine not only to survival but to cunning and culture. Though Homer never names Sicily outright, the island’s volcanic landscapes, sea-swept cliffs, and mythic aura have long inspired visions of heroism and abundance. Over the centuries, poets and historians have cast Sicilian wine as a symbol of rustic nobility and ancient endurance. To sip an Etna Bianco, then, is to take part in this living epic—where geology, myth, and human craftsmanship all converge in the glass.

Etenide from Pennisi offers a refined expression of Etna Bianco, made predominantly from Carricante grapes grown on the southeastern slopes of Mount Etna. In the glass, it opens with lifted aromas of lemon zest, white peach, crushed stones, and a faint herbal note reminiscent of wild Sicilian fennel. The palate is taut and mineral-driven, with bright acidity, a lean texture, and a lingering saline finish that speaks to the volcanic soils beneath the vines. Pennisi is a small, family-owned estate with deep generational ties to the land. Their approach to winemaking blends tradition with precision—harvesting by hand, fermenting in stainless steel to preserve purity, and letting the terroir speak without oak intervention. The result is a wine that feels both ancient and fresh, capturing the soul of the mountain with quiet confidence.

The 2022 Etneide White Wine shines straw-yellow and day-bright in the glass. It offers pronounced aromatic intensity with classic Etna minerality, bursting with tropical pineapple, ripe pear, citrus zest, and delicate notes of jasmine and white flowers. On the palate, it is off-dry, medium-bodied, and beautifully balanced, with medium acidity and layers of honeyed complexity. A truly exceptional expression of Mount Etna’s terroir—many thanks to James and Frankie B for gifting me this fabulous Sicilian gem!

In contrast, Alta Mora from Cusumano delivers a more polished and expressive take on Etna Bianco. Also Carricante-based, it bursts with aromatics—ripe golden apple, chamomile, grapefruit peel, and a touch of smoky flint. On the palate, it’s rounder and more textural than Etenide, offering a layered mouthfeel with slightly softened acidity and a long, mineral-laced finish. Alta Mora is Cusumano’s high-elevation Etna project, born out of the family's commitment to exploring Sicily’s premier terroirs. Their philosophy leans toward minimal intervention but with modern elegance: carefully selected vineyard parcels, temperature-controlled fermentation, and extended lees aging for added complexity. Tasting Alta Mora beside Etenide reveals how dramatically site and style can shift the expression of Carricante—each wine a compelling reflection of Mount Etna’s wild and varied terrain.

The 2022 Alta Mora Etna Bianco displays a pale lemon appearance with pronounced aromatic intensity. The nose reveals vibrant notes of yellow apple, ripe pineapple, grapefruit, and peach. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity and medium-plus body, offering a layered profile: primary flavors of lemon curd and pineapple, secondary hints of cheese rind and a subtle buttery texture, and tertiary nuances of nuttiness and saline minerality. Exceptionally well-crafted and ranked among the top 2% of wines globally, it paired beautifully with raw oysters and a turkey panini during a joyful, long-overdue Mother's Day brunch with Meg, Emily, and AJ at Bottiglia. Beautiful times call for beautiful wines.

Mount Etna's wine heritage is as powerful and unpredictable as the volcano itselt -- rooted in ancient traditions, shaped by myth, and refined by the hands of dedicated growers who work its rugged slopes. Tasting Etenide and Alta Mora side by side revealed the striking range and complexity Carricante can offer, from taut and mineral expressive and textured, all grounded in the mountain's volcanic soul. These wines dont just speak of Sicily -- they sing in its dialect, telling stories of elevation, resilience, and centuries of cultural richness. If your're looking to expand your Italian wine journey, there may be no better place to start than the lava-cooled vineyards of Mount Etna, where every glass offers a fresh perspective on what makes this region so extraordinary.

Sunday brunch at Bottiglia, Green Valley Ranch—making up for a missed Mother’s Day and soaking in every joyful moment as these amazing kids grow up right before our eyes. Mr. McKee would have been impressed with the dozen oysters I inhaled.

Monday, June 9, 2025 Blog - Mount Etna, Carricante Varietals